Jewels without Borders: My Visit to GemGenève.

March 2018, attending a luncheon in Hong Kong announcing a new B2B jewellery event, GemGenève.

The May 2025 9th edition of GemGenève, the renowned international gem and jewelry show, took place, as always, in Geneva. As someone with a deep appreciation for fine craftsmanship and exceptional gemstones, this event was a feast for the senses and a true celebration of beauty, history, and innovation. The show welcomed over 4,970 visitors, with 7,259 admissions in all over five days (including the preview) – the highest numbers in its history. “That’s a 34% increase on May 2024” explains GemGenève co-founder Ronny Totah. The theme of the show was "Borders" and with exhibitors from Africa to Ukraine via Armenia, China and Australia, the organizers certainly succeeded in creating a truly border-less, global event.

A World of Color and Light

Walking into the Palexpo exhibition hall was like stepping into a treasure trove. The vibrant colors of precious and semi-precious stones—from rich sapphires and fiery spinels to rare Paraiba tourmalines and glowing tsavorites—caught my eye at every turn. The variety and quality on display were nothing short of mesmerizing. Many exhibitors were not only showcasing loose stones, but also highlighting the stories behind them—where they were sourced, how they were cut, and what made each one unique. Through out the show I found evidence of the industries commitment to increased transparency in the supply chain, combined with a strong focus on provenance and sustainability. As a champion of natural diamonds and gemstones, surrounded by natural stones only, my heart and mind felt at peace with all I saw at GemGenève.

From paraiba's to emeralds and everything in between, the selection of gems at GemGenève was astounding.

Diamonds in Every Facet

100 Carat Fancy Orange Brown Diamond seen at Antwerp Cut

Of course, no jewelry event would be complete without diamonds. GemGenève offered a dazzling array of them—from antique old mine cuts with their romantic sparkle to sleek modern brilliants engineered for maximum light return. Multiple booths displayed rare fancy colored diamonds, including delicate pinks, sunny yellows, and icy blues that shimmered under the exhibition lights. Whether you’re a fan of classic white diamonds or rare hues, there was something here for every connoisseur.

Fancy Yellow Diamonds seen at Taché Group.

Vintage Treasures and Timeless Glamour

One of my favorite parts of the show was the vintage jewelry section. These were not just adornments—they were artifacts of design history. From Art Deco brooches to Victorian lockets and 1960s statement rings, each piece told a story. I spent time speaking with a few antique dealers who had encyclopedic knowledge of jewelry eras, makers, and hidden symbolism. It reminded me that jewelry is more than just luxury—it’s memory, artistry, and legacy.

Modern Visionaries and Design Innovation

Contrasting the vintage pieces were stunning displays of contemporary jewelry, where modern designers pushed the boundaries of form, material, and concept. Sculptural rings, asymmetrical earrings, and innovative setting techniques showed that the future of jewelry is bright—and bold. I met a few independent designers whose work was as much art as accessory, often drawing inspiration from architecture, nature, or even technology.

From left: Sapphire earrings and ring by Saboo, emerld necklace by Michael Gad, rings by Alexander Laut.

Beyond the Showcase

What sets GemGenève apart is its atmosphere of education and collaboration. I attended panel talks and live demonstrations, where gemologists, designers, and historians shared their insights into everything from ethical sourcing to trends in design. The spirit of discovery and conversation filled every corner of the venue.

From the series "Nature Transformed © " by artist Nelly Saunier on display at GemGenève

"Nadège Totah keeps close tabs on the work of rising stars and new names as they emerge on the

international scene. For the ninth edition of GemGenève, she chose to highlight a selection of

international artists – some of whom thus gained their first ever opportunity to present their work in

Europe. Dubbed Le Village des Designers, the project is especially close to her heart, with this edition

showcasing ten promising and inspiring new names: A.win Siu, Elsa Jin, Valérie Danenberg, Villa Milano, Bojem, William Llewellyn Griffiths, Lucas Hage, Shavarsh Hakobian, Suciyan and Richard Wu.

GemGenève founders and guest exhibitors presenting at a packed press conference, May 7 2025.

Created by Olga Oleksenko, the Ukrainian artists’ collective Strong & Precious was also present with a

selection of ten brands and independent jewelsmiths: Jewelry Lab, Iryna Karpova, Arevik Jewellery,

Oleksandra Kuzenkova, Inesa Kovalova, Olha Vynohradova, Olena Yastreb, Kleom, Anton Boyko and

Agate. Ninth edition partners AJA (the Armenian Jewellers Association) were at the tradeshow for

the second time with several artists in attendance: Armen Shahinyan, Karen Hovhannisyan, Vladimir

Manukyan, Mike Saatji and Vasken Melikian.

Founded by Longo Mulaisho-Zinsner, the Jewellery and Gemstone Association of Africa (JGAA, the

first African body bringing together jewellery professionals and stakeholders) sparked considerable

interest with its display of original items crafted by students at the Masterpeace Academy and the

Nsanshi Art Studio. In giving African creativity more recognition and international exposure, the ninth

edition of GemGenève will go down as one of the most cosmopolitan in the history of the event." GemGenève closing Press Release.

People

I would be remiss if omitted to mention the people aspect - not because I went to socialize, but because rarely have I seen such an impressive gathering of industry experts from across the globe. Around every corner, I would bump into a familiar face, be it an exhibitor or an attendee. The show is, in my opinion, just the right size! It's big enough to keep you busy for days, and to ensure you will find whatever you are looking for. But it's intimate enough to ensure you see everyone you need to see, and are able to sit down and enjoy a glass of wine or a cup of coffee and have a conversation with them.

Catching up with fellow industry insiders from near and far at GemGenève

Final Reflections

Whether you’re in the trade, a collector, or simply a lover of beautiful things, GemGenève is a must-visit. It offers a rare chance to see the past, present, and future of jewelry under one roof. I left inspired, enlightened, and dreaming of gemstones in every shade.

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