AMAZING AKOYA!
- Tracey Ellison TDG
- 2 days ago
- 7 min read
An Immersive Journey Into the World of Japanese Akoya Pearls
It’s no secret that I love all jewelry, and have long been a fan of Pearl focused brands like Yoko London and Autore Pearls, but I never knew much about the pearl industry. About the incredible process of cultivating pearls. About the different types and colors of pearls. About the many ways in which pearls are sorted and selected. So when I was invited by Jeremy Shepard, President of the American Pearl Association, to join an immersive experience in Japan that including visiting pearls farms and seeing for myself exactly what it means to talk about “cultured pearls”, I grabbed the opportunity with both hands!
You know I’m not a fan of lab grown diamonds. Let me be frank with you - a small (uneducated) part of me thought cultured pearls were not “natural”, and kind of equated them to lab grown diamonds. Boy, was I wrong! After spending time witnessing the incredible harmony between man and nature required to create a single cultivated Akoya Pearl…I had done a full 360 degree turnaround, and had completely fallen in love with Akoya pearls! While man may have lent a hand in helping the process, unlike lab grown diamonds, it would be impossible to have a cultured pearl without nature perfecting and completing the process!
What Makes Akoya Pearls So Special?
Akoya pearls are Japan’s signature gem:
Renowned for their brilliant luster, often described as mirror-like.
Perfectly round, thanks to precise nucleation and meticulous care.
Grown in colder waters, which produce tighter nacre layers and a luminous glow.
Crafted with time, often requiring more than a year of careful cultivation.
My pearl-filled adventure began in Fukuoka, from where we took a short flight to the remote and beautifully rugged Tsushima Island. From Tsushima Airport, we headed straight into the heart of Japan’s pearl heritage.
Kitamura Pearls Oyamakoshi Farm – Where Akoya Pearls Begin
Our first stop was the Kitamura Pearls Oyamakoshi Farm, where I watched the entire life cycle of the treasured Akoya oyster. Seeing the oysters being nurtured in the sea—patiently tended by farmers—was a reminder of how much devotion goes into every pearl. We took a boat out to see the fledgling oysters being grown, and saw oysters of all ages. The oysters are submerged in the sea, and are lifted out of the ocean and cleaned of barnacles and other natural debris clinging to them on a regular basis, much as one nurtured and looks after growing children! Miles and miles of nets, filled with growing oyster shells were all around us, growing in harmony with nature. The beauty of the Japanese islands is indescribable, I had visions (small minded, I know!) of Tokyo and all its lights, so to see unspoiled nature and island after island…it was unforgettable.
While on Tsushima island we visited Mount Eboshidake, with panoramic views over the island, and visited the spiritual Wadatsumi Shrine, dedicated to the god of the sea—a fitting stop on a trip centered around the treasures of the ocean.
Visiting Mount Eboshidake
From Tsushima, we flew back to Fukuoka and continued on to Nagasaki. In Nagasaki we stayed at a beautiful hotel, The Yumihari no Oka Hotel, where I was privy to seeing a full moon before falling asleep, and then woke early and watched the sunrise. It was a beautiful moment of gratitude and reflection on how lucky I was to be there… to be experiencing this moment in time…I’m a pretty tough nut but something about watching the sunrise in the East stirred deeply within me.
Sunrise, as seen from my room at the Yumihari no Oka Hotel
Pearl Heritage in Nagasaki
Sasebo Pearl Co., Ltd.
The next morning began at Sasebo Pearl Co., Ltd., where we learned even more about the handling, culturing, and harvesting of Akoya pearls. We began by once again going out on the water to see the oysters being grown. We saw a range of small and more mature oysters. We then saw the actual nucleus insertion of the oysters, and incredibly delicate process requiring enormous skill, as the bead and mantle tissue is placed inside the oyster.
One of the most exciting part of the trips was opening mature oysters, and feeling around for the pearl. Most of us partook in this process (the squeamish ones held back, as well as those who simply didn’t want to participate out of respect for the living oyster), and I have to say… the sheer delight at finding a beautiful pearl hidden inside the shell is a moment I’ll never forget. Thank you to Sasebo Pearl company and in particular to Mr. Fujita (owner and president of the Japan Pearl Association ) for generously allowing us to keep the pearls we found. One day I’ll set them into something special, for now I take great pleasure in simply looking at them and admiring their beauty.
Fun fact: Sasebo Pearl harvests approximately 600,000- 700,000 pearls a year! Just think about that…. Each Pearl is grown for four to five years, and in that time, it’s manually cleaned and cared for, it’s nucleated, and it’s harvested… all by hand!
Scenes from the day spent at Sasebo Pearl farm.
Fukae Pearl Co., Ltd.
We then visited Fukae Pearl Co., Ltd., a highlight not only for its pearls but because we also had the honor of meeting the Governor of Nagasaki, Mr Kengo Oishi, who welcomed us warmly and spoke about the region’s deep connection to pearl culture. Once again we were privileged to witness the culturing process. The governor himself (a trained doctor) took up a set of tools, and deftly planted a nucleus inside an oyster, much to all our delight! The process of nucleation is a complex one, conducted with the utmost respect for the living mollusk.
Scenes from our visit to Fukae Pearl Co, togther the with Governor of Nagasaki, Mr Kengo Oishi.
How Pearls Are Cultured:
Across the farms we visited, the process differed slightly, but in general, it follows these careful steps:
Nucleation – A skilled technician places a tiny mother-of-pearl bead and a piece of mantle tissue into the Akoya oyster.
Healing Period – The oyster rests in protected baskets while it recovers.
Ocean Culturing – The oysters are lowered into the sea, where they are cleaned, checked, and cared for throughout the seasons.
Nacre Formation – The oyster slowly coats the nucleus with layer upon layer of nacre, building the pearl’s shine.
Harvesting and Sorting – Each pearl is hand-harvested, then sorted by luster, shape, surface, and color.
Seeing this artistry up close gave me a new appreciation for just how rare a truly fine Akoya pearl is.
A Moment of Reflection
In the afternoon, we visited the Nagasaki Peace Park, the Nagasaki Atomic Bomb Museum, and the Nagasaki Prefectural Government Building—a somber and powerful reminder of the city’s history and resilience. Walking into the museum, one is greeted by a ticking clock, whose hands are stopped at 11:02 -
The moment of the explosion. Debris from the explosion has been collected and is all around the museum,including steel and glass that melted from the heat, painting a picture of destruction that I hope the world never sees again.
Visiting the Nagasaki Atomic Bomb Museum and the beautiful Peace Garden.
From Nagasaki to Kobe
The next day, we flew from Nagasaki to Kobe, the final stop on our journey, where we had time to visit a pearl company, a free day to explore, and then… the eagerly awaited opening of the 7th Japanese Pearl Fair, held in Kobe.
Otsuki Pearl Co., Ltd.
In Kobe, we toured Otsuki Pearl Co., Ltd., discovering yet another facet of Japan’s craftsmanship and dedication to pearl excellence. Seeing how pearls are sorted was incredible / each and every pearl is examined by experienced experts, to be grouped among pearls of like color and size. It’s a manual process, resulting in perfectly matched strands of lustrous Akoya pearls.
At the Otsuki Pearl company.
Mikimoto Pearl Island
The following day was a dream for any pearl lover: a visit to Mikimoto Pearl Island, the birthplace of the world’s first cultured pearl. Walking through the museum, seeing historical tools, and watching demonstrations gave so much context to the techniques still used today.
A Free Day exploring Nara
Before the fair began, we had a free day in which three of us decided to explore Nara Park, home to friendly deer and ancient temples— a peaceful contrast to the intensity of the previous days. We took the train from Kobe to Nara, switching trains and platforms and feeling very proud of ourselves as we successfully navigated the effecting and spotlessly clean Japanese rail system. If you are ever fortunate enough to visit Japan, I highly recommend a trip to Nara - it’s a joy to wonder among the deers, who roam freely around the village. It’s also home to several important temples. I loved visiting Todaiji Temple where you will be amazed by the Great Buddha Hall, which houses Daibutsu, a colossal statue that, at 15 meters (49 feet) in height, is the world's largest gilded bronze Buddha. It is housed in an all-wood building, the Daibutsu-den, 48 meters (157 feet) in height, the largest wooden building in the world.
Visiting Nara with Esther Lighart and Jennifer Heebner.
The 7th Japanese Pearl Fair — Kobe
A highlight of the trip was the opening of the 7th Japanese Pearl Fair, a three-day event held in Kobe. The exhibition floors shone with the very best:
Akoya pearls in classic strands, rare colors, and exceptional luster.
Tahitian pearls with their peacock tones.
South Sea pearls, golden and white, glowing with luxury.
Strands and strands of pearls surrounded us, as well as beautiful finished pearl jewelry. None of us came home empty handed. We all shopped, our hand earrings, necklaces, and the like. After spending days on the water, and learning how pearls are cultured, we had a respect and appreciation for the pearls we saw at the fair like never before. Side note: if you are a jeweler, or a retailer who deals in pearls, I urge you to consider attending the Japanese Pearl fair. It’s far more intimate than other trade shows, and offers the most incredible selection of pearls, from all around the world. Experience Japanese hospitality and culture, while pealed shopping? Sounds like win-win to me!
That evening, we attended a warm and elegant welcome party, celebrating Japan’s pearl industry and the many artisans behind it. Congratulations to our host, Jeremy, who introduced every one of us delegates in both fluent English, and fluent Japanese! We enjoyed sushi, sake, and a wonderful evening. I was thrilled to see Italian friends of mine at the fair and at the cocktail party, which was a truly international event.
The 7th Japanese Pearl Fair.
Flying Home
The next day, with my heart full (and camera roll overflowing), I flew home—carrying with me a deeper admiration for the art, history, and human dedication behind every Japanese pearl.
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